El Burgo to Ronda

What a day. Described in our guidebook as difficult, it surely was. 26 km with a very big ascent on a hot day.

Marvellous scenery, the early morning was cool and followed the pretty Rio Turon. 

We passed the charming contigo de Lifa with lots of wee lambs.

The big climb over Lifa was spectacular and involved a bit of bouldery scree – just like home! We sweated our way to the top at 1169m, and it was so hot we sweated all the way down the other side! 

It seemed a long, long road into Ronda dotted with strange electrocution warning signs 

and we tumbled into the nearest bar for an icy drink. 

The old city is extraordinary, and we have a wonderful, homely place to stay close to the famous Puente Nuevo. Best of all, a day off tomorrow to explore our beautiful surroundings.

El Burgo

Another warm day walking through lovely scenery. Pine forest and wild mountain terrain, panoramic views.

Highlight was meeting a shepherd herding his sheep - he was truly a good shepherd as he gave us great advice -  to follow the cairns over the next tricky section. It worked - we didn't get lost.

An old marble quarry.

Some of the beautiful irises dotted along the track.

Climbing to Carratraca

Last  night Gui and Rob serenaded us with Welsh  songs. Today those lovely tunes were needed to get me up all the massive climbs. The first climb out of El Chorro was fantastic, up under enormous cliff faces. 

At one point we could look way down below us and see the insane Caminita del Rey snaking it’s way along the canyon walls.

We were delighted to meet Tim, a fellow long distance walker from the UK.

It got hot and the ruins at  Bobastro were a bit disappointing and then the uphill haul went on for ever. 

Finally we got on to a sandy track that wound it’s way through pine forest all the way to Carretraca. Pretty town with a flamboyant town hall, 

an old bull ring 

and a sulphurous smelling spa. 

The village was buzzing, Sunday afternoon and everyone was feasting. We found our way to a lively bar and enjoyed the vibe and the music. 

Dinner was all alone in our quirky Casa Pepe, but delicious. It was election day in Spain which explained the presence of several Guardia Civil in town.

El Chorro

Home of the famous Caminata del Rey walk along a gorge and a mecca for  rock climbers. A refuge for oldies who didn’t want to walk 25 difficult kms in one day. 

All accommodation booked out so we are sleeping in a tent provided by our hosts at the Olive Branch. Sort of hip place for mad climbers. We fit right in, being a little crazy ourselves. 

The chef was going to have a day off, but as we had no food and it's a long walk to the nearest restaurant, he is now cooking for everyone here! 

View from our tent

Loved our leisurely walk today through a birder’s paradise, spectacular cliffs above us dotted with crazy climbers.

Saw vultures, eagles, choughs and hoopoes amongst others wonderful birds.

Washed a load of clothes. Relaxing afternoon sitting round a lovely pool. This is the life.

Sunshine

Oh what a difference a day makes! Today was absolutely glorious, the sun shone all day and the walking was superb. We even met two pilgrims  - Danish and Austrian - and spent some time chatting with them. 

We did manage to miss a track - luckily Rob checked the GPS and back uphill we climbed. The ensuing descent down to Valle de Abdalajis was huge.

Rob had a fine day with his binoculars - eagles, a griffon vulture and pretty bee-eaters the highlights.

Mud, mud, glorious mud

Have our packing down to a fine art now – only takes minutes, but then we don’t have much. Both have packs under 7kg.

This morning we were slow though – it was raining again and we were reluctant to get moving. The rain and wind persisted for quite some time, but our gear stood up to the test. 

The tracks were even muddier and claggier today and there was a fair bit of cursing. In the end we sang songs to keep our spirits up. When we got into town we found a fuente and Rob cleaned our boots. We didn't want to turn up at our swish B&B covered in mud!

Luckily it was a short day and our accommodation in Villanueva de la Concepcion is absolutely superb and has made up for the mud!!

Mud and Tar Macadam

Walked through lovely landscapes today. 

Didn’t mind the long climb but didn’t enjoy the muddy claggy tracks which caked our shoes. 

At least 6kms on a quiet road edged with wildflowers and weeds, over a pass at 883m but then all downhill. 

Had to go through a tunnel under a huge motorway to get to our hotel. Freezing cold again, and water lukewarm. Sigh.

Rob's earning brownie points by cleaning our shoes.

Rain in Spain

Cheat day to avoid stormy weather. Friend of hostess at hotel gave us a ride to our next destination  Riogordo. 

A shame as the walk looked nice and included a huge downhill. Cleared up in afternoon so we ventured out from our rather odd hotel complete with cockroach.

Checked out our route for the morrow. Just as well as Rob would have had us going back the way we came! That’s what happens when you cheat, you become disoriented. I have a hopeless sense of direction but I knew I was right this time. Always takes an effort to convince the old boy.

Anyway, did us good to have a rest day.

Doddle day

After yesterday, today was a breeze. Blooming freezing though. Cold most of the day and strong wind. Long easy walk over 1100m pass and a gentle descent.  Beautiful forest of firs, junipers, cork oak and an arboretum with a variety of trees. Great views of distant mountains.

Smell of bacon wafting past was a surprise until we discovered a campground. Descended to cultivated plains. Walked through a horrible area littered with rubbish – depressing. Have a simple room in pension Aqui te quiero ver and are hopeful of getting our washing dry!!

Maroma

What a day. Walking from 8.30 until 5, the last hour or so in rain. Only 17 km but felt longer. Huge climb of 1050 m to our highest point at 1420m. The walk was on the flanks of La Maroma and the whole day we were in magnificent landscapes. Tough walking on rocky tracks and a short section over exposed rock, and a couple of navigational errors added to the fun. We loved it despite the exhaustion that set in plodding through rain at the end of a long tough day to Alcaucin.

Zoom in to see our track across the far side.

Can't get this pic to go right way up. Arrgh, technology defeats me again.

House of Oranges

Walked through groves of a avocados and olives, lots of prickly pears and giant agaves. Very warm at times. We were alone in a vast landscape, and we loved the morning walk. 

The afternoon was frustrating as we could see our destination for ages but the trail climbed high above it before finally descending to Sedella – not before passing a pongy goat farm where a pack of dogs rushed out at us. One got a bit too friendly but we eventually got him to vamos! 

Found a bar in Sedella to shelter from a huge rainstorm which hit. Couldn’t get hold of our hosts who were supposed to be collecting us. Finally Dave arrived and we were soon ensconced in a gorgeous room at our B&B, The House of Oranges. Mary looked after us while Dave cooked us a magnificent meal. The B&B was in an isolated and peaceful location and we heard the Scops owl calling. Breakfast included freshly picked and squeezed oranges which was delicious. Our hosts totally spoilt us for whatever comes next! 

Good Friday in the rain

Best part of morning was discovering a café open in a teeny tiny place so we could score a coffee and cake. The other bonus was meeting some lovely UK escapees out walking their dogs, and lots of other people out enjoying the mountain trails. 

Worst part of the morning was it started to rain. It didn’t stop so we got rather soggy, and wending our way through the steep and slippery streets to our accommodation in pretty Competa was nerve wracking. Luckily someone showed us where to go - we ended up  bedraggled and dripping on the doorstep of our B&B. Our  Irish host was delightful and soon sorted us out. She booked a restaurant around the corner for dinner where there was confusion and my meal never arrived!! No matter, I ate most of Rob’s potatoes bravas and his salad and had room for a yummy lemon posset while he enjoyed his amazing black pudding!

Frustration and Feasting in Frigiliana

A brilliant day’s walking on good tracks high up in wild mountains with impressive views. A roller coaster of big climbs and descents into river gorges. Only went wrong once. 

Started off in rain but it didn’t last long and the promised thunderstorms never arrived. Final stretch was in a river so ended up with wet feet before reaching the very pretty village. Had endless trouble finding our accommodation and then getting into it using a fancy app on the mobile. Just give me a key!! 

Wonderful meal at Las Chinas made up for it. We ate till we could eat no more. We also consumed a beer, a vino tinto, a muscatel wine, and the proprietors nearly finished us off with a free caramel vodka each. The service was extraordinary and the place buzzing. We left feeling pampered and rather drunk!