Rubiaes

Fabulous day on the camino today. Awesome tracks, lots of eucalyptus and pine forest. 

Very sociable as we passed many pilgrims. Yes, you read that right, we were both feeling fit and romped along. We even found the biggest climb very manageable. 

Arrived in Rubiaes to find a huge forest fire burning just 5 kms from here. All seems to be under control now.

We are staying in a sort of albergue, only we have our own quirky room and facilities. It’s busy with other pilgrims and we have met some interesting folks from Ireland, Canada and Germany, amongst others. 

Rob has made friends with the local canines.

Bitten

A much nicer day  than yesterday in many ways. It started with a fantastic buffet breakfast, and the trail followed quiet country lanes and ancient tracks. It was a little cooler, with a good breeze.

We made good time to Pont de Lima, where we found a huge market in progress. 

We decided we would brave the albergue, but we are not having much luck with this -   we discovered it didn’t open until 4 and we were in need of showers and a rest right now! So flagged it and opted for a hostel instead.  The lock on our room didn’t work properly, so Rob managed somehow to communicate with our Portugese landlady that if he had a hammer and screwdriver, he would fix it. And fix it he did. The quid pro quo was that she refused to take any payment for doing our washing.

We should have slept like logs, but unfortunately somewhere along the way today we were attacked by an army of midges and we are both sporting a huge number of great ugly itchy welts. I hate midges!!! 

Through Barcelos to Balugaes

An easy walk to the bustling old town of Barcelos. Sunday, so loads of cyclists about - here are some crossing the bridge in to town.

Old cross in the outdoor archaeological museum

Me with the Cockerel of Barcelos, symbol of an interesting legend.

Portuguese pastel nata - I am addicted to these sweet treats...

Spring festival time, flowers lining the road

The grounds of our posh accommodation - included a swimming pool which was  very welcome after 24 very hot kilometers.

Fleeing the coast

Although our connection to the inland route was still mainly on hard surfaces, we both instantly felt happier. We were on more familiar terrain and really started to enjoy ourselves.

Amazing old aqueduct running through the middle of town

Wacky plant pots

Chanced upon a choir of young girls practising in a huge church - wonderful experience.

To finish the day we stayed in a small hostel in Pedra Furada where we used a genuine old lavadaria to wash our clothes. It was so hot they dried in no time. 

Shared a lovely evening with friendly pilgrims from Holland and Germany.

Camino Portuguesa

First day leaving Porto I thought these cops on bikes were looking at Rob with suspicion:

Along the Duoro River was pleasant enough

Surprised by a touch of NZ

A huge ancient obelisk 

But we had to walk on miles of tarmac, cobblestones and endless boardwalk. Both my legs started playing up.

Decided these statues were actually pleadingfor the Atlantic gale force winds to stop....

Because once we passed the river mouth and turned north all hell broke loose. We were sandblasted until every orifice was full of sand. Whose stupid idea was this? 

After 33 killer kilometers we staggered into the albergue in Vila do Conde to be told it was full, but we could have a mattress on the floor if we liked. NO WAY.

Got sent up the road to a hotel and at first we thought this was it:

Turned out to be a lovely place next door. Decided then and there to get off the coastal route and head inland tomorrow.

Cerrado Los Lunes

20 km beach walking with virtually no hills promised to be a doddle for our last day on the Coast to Coast. Not so. The first couple of hours were just fine, and as we had to cross a river we even walked barefoot for an hour or so. Tarifa slowly disappeared into the distance behind us, 

as one of the biggest wind farms in Europe came into view far above us. 

Still a lot of beach ahead

We thought we were nearly there when we saw the giant sand dune ahead. Only it wasn't THE giant dune we knew to expect at the end of the day.

In fact, after that lay rocky headland after rocky headland after rocky headland. In between were tucked little coves where we surprised nude sunbathers. They didn't seem to care less actually, and at least it provided some light relief! We thought they were weird exposing themselves to the baking sun, but what must they have thought of us, covered up from top to toe? No photos of nudies, sorry. Instead, here is one of the many now gaily decorated shipwrecks scattered along the rocky coast.

We spotted pretty lizards darting away, and realised that if the lizards are out, so might the snakes be!

We were pretty happy to cross the last headland and find ourselves on the lovely beach of Bolonia, our final destination on the Coast to Coast. 

Feel free to laugh at this photo:

The first people we came across were a couple from London who had also done the walk, but loved Bolonia so much they stayed a week. They were impressed by our light packs, and even more impressed that we had carried them ourselves- they had theirs taxied between every village!!  Now why didn't we think of that????

They were very friendly and we had a good few laughs together.

Walked ages to see the famous Roman ruins only to discover Cerrado Los Lunes (closed on Mondays - Mike Rudge if you read this you will laugh!) Then we went to every single restaurant and bar in town searching for dinner, only to discover that todos los restaurantes Cerrado Los Lunes!!! Oh no - luckily we spotted a tiny tienda just before it closed where we managed to buy enough supplies to keep the wolf from the door - and a bottle of vino.  So much for a celebratory dinner!!

We have a fabulous room with a great view over the beach at La Hormiga Valdapores - The Flying Ant. We would love to be staying longer but injury has cut our free days short, and new adventures beckon.

Finally, here is our very poor attempt at a celebratory selfie!!

Off to Portugal we go to become pilgrims on the Camino Portuguesa.

Back to the Med

An enjoyable walk along a stream started the day.

Then it was up and down all day along an impressive coastal track. 

The geology was fascinating- sort of rocky reefs running parallel to the shore.

A sad and sobering sight was the wreckage strewn around many of the little coves from illegal immigrant boats.

There were old gun emplacements and military lookouts and La Torre de Guadalmesi. 

We arrived in Tarifa, the penultimate day on the Coast to Coast and after a warm and windy day headed straight for a cold beer. Rob's knee seized up for a while but tough as old boots, seems to have come right.

Plodding to Pelayo

Started the day in cool weather and flat walking. We were very close to the massive blue prison of Algeciras. 

Passed a little embalse, pretty but few birds.

The longest uphill drove Rob mad as it kept zigging and zagging instead of going straight up. I enjoyed the easy gradient, as did the many cyclists on the track today. They were loving the downhill for sure.

Looking back down at our looping trail

Went through ancient forest, lovely cork oaks, 

and as we wound our way uphill panoramic views opened up, back to Algeciras, Gibralter and across the straits to the massif of Jebel Musa. 

Had to scramble down an overgrown rough track right at the end of our 25.km day. Rob took a nasty tumble and bent his knee right back. Amazingly, he seems to be okay. And when we got to our gorgeous cabin in the woods at Huerta Grande after an 8 hour day I gleefully ripped off the strapping tape!! I think my calf is healed.

Friendly old pooch wanted to  come with us